It is with a team of three young athletes that I head to the Monte Rosa massif to attempt the ascent of their first 4000 meters. The Monte Rosa massif extends between Italy and Switzerland, its altitude is high and it concentrates an impressive series of peaks above 4000 m including the Lyskamm or the Pointe Dufour. We have the ambition to climb the Zumstein peak 4562m. This summit of initiation to the high mountains does not present any particular technical difficulties, it is ideal for a first 4000m in a mountaineering career.
From Gressoney, at the end of the morning, we take the ski lifts to access the Punta Indren 3275m, departure of our hike towards the Gnifetti refuge. The path quickly crosses the tongue of the Indren glacier to slip between the rocky bars where you sometimes have to “put your hands”. We have to be careful not to climb too fast because we quickly run out of breath at this altitude. A few nice via ferrata passages allow us to overcome the steepest passages. We quickly reach the Citta di Mantova refuge, but the final destination is a little higher… This time we have to cross the Garstelet glacier to reach the last rocky passages below the refuge. In 1h30, we reach our goal for the day: the Gnifetti refuge 3647m.
Above we can see tomorrow’s route which winds between the impressive glaciers. We can see the Pyramide Vincent 4215m, another top summit; but for now it’s beer time.
A very hearty meal and we quickly return to our little room. Tomorrow we start early!
4am…it’s time, we jump out of bed and head for breakfast. Everyone is ok, no headaches, everything is fine. It is in the light of the headlamps that we go up the Lys glacier. It is rather well sealed for the season. It is not too cold, despite the light breeze that comes down. In less than 2 hours we reach the 4150m of the Col de Lys. Dawn and magnificent shades of light welcome us there. We take the opportunity to take a break and nibble on a bar.
We now cross under the Parrot peak (4443m) and soon see the Marguerita refuge, the highest guarded refuge in Europe, at 4554m. The altitude is felt and we now come out on the Gnifetti pass with the reward of the view of the Po plain. The last part of our ascent is on a very beautiful tapered ridge. The whole team reaches the summit of the Zumstein peak. The weather is great and we enjoy a few minutes of this sumptuous viewpoint. The Dufour peak (highest peak of the massif with 4634m) is not far…
The descent is done quickly, with the day we discover the environment of our beginning of ascent. Past the refuges we join the Punta Indren and descend into the heat of the valley. A small restaurant to celebrate the success of the team with this first 4000 meters, and we return to France, full of images of fabulous landscapes.