End of May, it’s time to start climbing again! Heading south with Camille to visit the beautiful climbing routes of the famous Calanques of Marseille. On the program, five days of climbing and five routes of an accessible level for a return.
For this first day, we choose the “Traversée Ramon”
A beautiful, fairly quiet crossing to start. Departure from Port-miou by the GR. Arriving at the Calanque d’En-Vau around 8am, a splendid storm greets us! Fortunately it quickly passed… it gives us time to enjoy the cove since there is no one there.
The walls dry and we reach the “Trou de Canon” to begin our crossing. It is a beautiful journey above the sea, punctuated by some fun climbing passages. We exit by the 2 climbing lengths in grade 5 to reach the plateau of Castel-Vieil. Beautiful view of the cove of En-Vau.
D2: Amazing Aven de Cancéou
It is from Les Baumettes following the Morgiou ridge that we reach our objective: the Aven Cancéou.
After following a rather impressive descending ledge, a short abseil allows us to access the upper part of the aven. From there, a 50m abseil into the cave plunges us into a parallel world! It is dark but a lagoon with intense blue water fascinates us. It’s a little wonder of nature!
The first few meters of climbing on the wet rock are surprising, but the grain is reassuring. It’s a little trip that looks like caving to reach the surface. There’s even a circular crossing before reaching the last pitch: in 40m of climbing we find ourselves 10m from the start… The climb is really interesting because the rock is very worked. From the top of the sinkhole we join the “chimney of the well” route for 5 new pitches, some of which are splendid. The Aragonite chimney is really cool. On the way back, the view of Sormiou and Morgiou is amazing!
D3: In Gaston’s footsteps!
Yes, it’s a dream, so let’s go. The exit to the pass overlooking the Eissadon is spectacular! A very steep path takes us to the foot of the Aiguille, requiring a bit of attention; we shouldn’t arrive too quickly at the bottom… The start of the route is at water level and fortunately the sea is rather calm, otherwise it would be complicated. The climbing is really nice on these first 4 lengths of the traverse. Then we gain a bit of altitude, but the 6a+ length is calm, it is really worn, we had to take the chalk… The last two are very pretty and less hard. The summit of the Aiguille de l’Eissadon offers an unforgettable view. Two abseils and here we are on the long way back, images full of eyes.
D4: A little tour to the Bec de Sormiou.
We chose the route of the north-east spur. On the program: 5 lengths, 6a+ max. The rock is surprisingly white and the view of Sormiou is very beautiful. The climbing is really cool, the passage in 6a+ stings a little. Livanos, the opener, sent it! It’s already the last pitch, we would do another route but the call of the sea is stronger!
D5: Early rise to avoid the crowds at Cap Canaille.
Today’s route: “Ouvreur de bouse”. First to the car park, perfect, we won’t be disturbed in the abseils! The sandstone rock is crazy, very sculpted and steep. The view of Cassis is magnificent. The route winds in the cliff thus avoiding the too crumbly parts, it is well equipped it rolls.
We meet the first parties who are going down but it doesn’t bother, the relays are doubled. It’s really steep but there are only ferries it’s crazy. We already arrive at the summit, just in time, a bunch of firefighters come to do rescue exercises on the route …
We really enjoyed this little climbing trip to the Calanques. The routes, the quality of the rock and the view are exceptional. You just have to organize yourself to be out of the busiest times to really appreciate it. We will come back, that’s for sure!